Soaring ceiling and art deco chandeliers provide the backdrop for the Prada show

Soaring ceiling and art deco chandeliers provide the backdrop for the Prada show

AMO, OMA’s research and creative studio, added a retractable ceiling to Fondazione Prada that moved to reveal an array of art deco chandeliers for Prada’s Fall/Winter 2023 menswear show.

The Deposito, a huge concrete-lined warehouse-style space at Milan’s Fondazione Prada, hosted the Fall-Winter 2023 show during Milan Fashion Week on Sunday 15th January 2023.

Interior view of the Prada Fall/Winter 2023 menswear show
Prada’s Fall/Winter 2023 menswear show was presented during Milan Fashion Week

“For the Prada Fall Winter 2023 Menswear Show, AMO conceived a scenography that changes as the audience attends the show and changes the perception of the space in the Fondazione Prada deposito,” said AMO.

“The space is left empty, only filled with rows of concrete benches.”

Image of models at the Prada Fall/Winter 2023 menswear show
The set was designed by AMO

Before the show began, the space looked like a dimly lit concrete bunker 9 feet (2.7 meters) tall, decorated only with rows of concrete benches.

As models entered the space, the false ceiling slowly began to rise, revealing a veil of glowing light from a series of square openings in its surface.

Image of the set at the Prada Fall Winter 2023 menswear show
A floating ceiling revealed three tier chandeliers

From here, three-tiered chandeliers made of translucent, ribbed polycarbonate sheets emerged from openings in the ceiling, illuminating the concrete art storage space as the ceiling grew higher and higher.

The moveable ceiling worked as a result of a series of chains attached to motorized systems that raised and lowered the false ceiling by box trusses over the deposito’s original ceiling.

At its final height, the ceiling reached a height of nine meters and featured 16 Art Deco-style chandeliers hanging over the catwalk, Prada’s latest Fall-Winter 2023 men’s collection and its audience.

The chandeliers revealed the entire space and the orange structural beams that flank the walls of the Deposito, as well as the floors marked with tape and installation from the sets of previous Prada shows, such as the Spring Summer 2019 show and other exhibitions.

Image from the Prada Fall/Winter 2023 menswear show
The ceiling was raised to nine meters

After reaching a height of nine meters, the ceiling began to return to its original height, restoring the concrete space to its cold, barely lit bunker shape.

“During the show, the ceiling rises to reveal a row of three meter high chandeliers – designed to reference a classic shape with industrial materiality – and then retracts to its original position.”

“The proportions and atmosphere of the room change almost imperceptibly from a dark room with low ceilings to a warm, monumental salon-like space and back again.”

Image of the rig system at the Prada show
The set was inspired by Prada’s spring/summer 2016 show

The set also borrowed from AMO’s previous sets for Prada.

It drew parallels with AMO’s 2015 set for the Italian fashion house’s Spring/Summer 2016 show, which featured translucent “stalactites” similarly constructed of translucent polycarbonate sheets suspended over curved concrete tiered seating.

Photo of a model
The collection was designed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons

Prada is led by Italian designer Miuccia Prada and Belgian designer Raf Simons, who joined the house in 2020 as Co-Creative Director. In 2022, Simons unexpectedly announced the closure of his 27-year-old eponymous label.

At this season’s Paris Fashion Week, Saint Laurent presented its Fall Winter 2023 menswear show at the Bourse de Commerce, renovated by Tadao Ando.

The photography and video are courtesy of OMA.

Project credits:

partner: Rem Koolhaas
Associate: Julio Margheri
Team: Alex Tintea, Luisa Carvalho, Laura Martinelli

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